New discoveries, interesting wines from place you’ve — or at least I’ve — never heard of, is one of the things I love about Italian wines. Here is yet another DOC I am unfamiliar with. You too could be excused if you are unfamiliar with Monreale, a tiny DOC comprising about 70 acres just west of Palermo. That will change now that I’ve been introduced to this wine. Catarratto, often described as a workhorse of Sicilian wine because it is the most widely planted grape on that island, does not have a grand reputation. Alessandro di Camporeale’s is an exception to the rule. Both floral and crisp, with stone fruit nuances, it is reminiscent of a white wine from the Rhône with bracing acidity. With good weight, it has plenty of fruit without being heavy or ponderous because of its abundant energy. A delectable bit of bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal.
Alessandro di Camporeale, Monreale DOC (Italy) Catarratto 2020
By Michael Apstein