Alessandro di Camporeale, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Catarratto 2018

 This is an incredibly impressive example of the Catarratto variety — one that will immediately endear the grape to those who don’t know it, and that will change the minds of those who have only tasted mediocre renditions.  By comparison to the bargain-priced “Benedè” bottling of Catarratto from this same house, this is both more refined (less rustic in texture) and more complex (thanks to 10% of the juice being aged for 8 months in 600-liter French oak casks).  The oak influence is expressed in a very restrained way, with some nice spicy, nutty notes showing in the bouquet, plus a bit of extra grip on the midpalate and in the finish, but without any overtly grainy or astringent feel.  Stated more concisely, the wood treatment is brilliant, with only positive results that seem perfectly attuned to the wine’s weight and fruit sweetness, at least in this vintage.  The fruit character is admirably multi-dimensional, with strains recalling citrus, stone fruit, tropical characters, and even a resemblance to ripe figs.  Medium-plus in body, this could work well with relatively light shellfish or fin fish dishes, but it has enough flavor impact to work just as well with sauteed scallops or lobster, or even pork tenderloin medallions or veal scallops.