Alessandro di Camporeale, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2017

 This superb rendition of Nero d’Avola is sourced from a climate in the Mandranova area that is cooler than vineyards closer to Catania or most other sites in Sicily, and the variety looks quite different as a result, with absolutely no over-ripe or “chunky” character, even from a conspicuously hot growing season in 2017.  It is fully ripe, yet shows excellent freshness, with notes of both red and black berries and a suggestion of clack cherries as well.  A very restrained hint of wood lends additional complexity while keeping the gorgeous fruit in the forefront.  The balance and proportionality of fruit, acidity, tannin and wood is impeccable, and the overall profile of the wine is almost perfectly harmonious.  For the record, I tasted this from magnum, though I doubt that would have made much difference by comparison to a 750 ml bottle less than two years after the vintage.  I had not even finished writing my raw tasting note at the winery before looking for a source that could sell this (and the 2016 “Kaid” Syrah) to me in the USA, to no avail, though I hope a strong importer will take note of this exceptional producer.