When it comes to Sicily, Syrah isn’t my favorite red grape variety — give me Nero d’Avola, Nerello or one of the other fine and distinctive Sicilian varieties any time. But with that said, from its attractive beet-red color all the way through its powerful yet also elegant dark mocha and dried berry flavors to its long lip-smacking aftertaste this is a very successful and satisfying wine. One of its charms is something it doesn’t have: An overly aggressive oak presence, which is a character flaw that brings too many Sicilian Syrahs down to a mundane level as far as I’m concerned. Nor am I alone in this sentiment: “Sicily is becoming the Napa of Italy,” seems a popular refrain these days, and I don’t think anyone means it as a compliment. Yes, I know, many wine drinkers love big oaky red wines, but luckily for those of us who prefer more authentic textures and flavors this is not one of them.
