It is a rare year indeed that a producer excels in both reds and whites in Burgundy. But Gambal has done so in 2010. This 2010 Vosne-Romanée is a good example of his success with that vintage. It delivers the quintessential Burgundian combination of fruit and earth, with the flavors of each playing off nicely against the other. The tannins are polished and the acidity enlivening. It delivers what Burgundy is supposed to deliver–flavor without weight. And that’s an impressive accomplishment for a village wine.