Alois Lageder, Vigneti Delle Dolomiti (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Bianco 2021

 The wines of Alto Adige deserve to be more widely appreciated than they are, particularly Pinot Bianco, which is potentially marvelous.  More of the world’s best renditions of the variety are released from Alto Adige than anywhere, and one would think that Alois Lageder would be a leader among leaders, as he was a pioneer of ultra-conscientious viticulture in the area, with a generally well-deserved reputation for excellence as a result.  However, this wine is always just “pretty good,” and I’ve long worried that by leaving first-time tasters with that impression when they know of Lageder’s stature, it actually does more harm than good for the region’s renditions of Pinot Bianco.  Although it is always fresh and pleasant with no flaws, it never shows noteworthy concentration nor much depth of flavor, and that’s what I found when trying this during a trip.  Not surprisingly, it was the only Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige available where I was staying, and consequently everyone who tries it there will think—“Alto Adige Pinot Bianco is…pretty good.”  This should be better than it is, and if anyone can explain to me why it isn’t, I’m all ears.