Alta Luna, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino, Italy) 2009

This is a new brand from the Cavit winery in northern Italy’s Trentino region. One of the wines I tried was an inoffensive and unexciting Pinot Noir, but for $13.99 I didn’t expect grand cru Burgundy, so for the price I was fine. The second red wine I tasted from Alta Luna, however, got my attention. Phases is an eclectic blend of two native grape varieties — Teroldego and Lagrein — with Merlot. Because of the cool climate in the foothills of the Alps, the native grape varieties can sometimes fail to ripen fully, producing lackluster reds at best. The early ripening Merlot grape is a clever safeguard against a poor vintage. The ’09 Phases hits on all cylinders, though, exhibiting the red-fruited characteristics of the native grapes and the darker fruit aromas of Merlot. The wine is nicely structured, with smooth tannins and firm acidity, and should pair beautifully with sauces featuring tomatoes, olives or savory herbs, as well as grillled meats. Best of all, it’s an excellent value, a wine that rises well above its modest price point.