Álvarez y Diez, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2021

This outstanding example of Verdejo from Rueda is showing beautifully at this point in early August of the year following when the grapes were harvested — which is exactly when we need outstanding Verdejo.  At once opulent and racy, it combines impressive concentration and ripe (even tropical) fruit aromas and flavors, but they are very effectively counterbalanced by bright citrus notes and acidity.  The effect is a bit uncanny, as it really shouldn’t be possible for a wine to be both opulent and racy, but tasting is believing.  To be clear, this doesn’t have the palate weight of, say, Semillon, but it isn’t far off, and it isn’t as racy as Sauvignon Blanc (including that from this excellent producer), but again, it is close in that respect too.  One more thing:  I still had one bottle of this same wine from 2020 in my cellar, and cracked it to taste alongside this 2021.  The 2020 is still delicious, and though I prefer the 2021 at this moment, the stability of the 2020 shows that you can buy the 2021 now and enjoy it for many months ahead — well past August and into oyster season when things turn cold again.