Alysian, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County) Pinot Noir 2009

Winemaker Gary Farrell has long eschewed power for finesse, a stylistic decision that has enabled him to compile a long track record of elegant California Pinot Noirs even as his many colleagues elected to take the road of greater opulence. So you won’t often, if ever, come across a Farrell Pinot described as jammy. For those who enjoy that style, however, there is the Alysian ’09 Rochioli Edgewater, which is rich by Farrell’s standards. The weight and richness is supported, however, by a solid acid spine and firm tannins that lurk in the background. The aromas trend toward raspberry and ripe wild berries, with a compelling, earthy forest floor nuance. If your thing is weight and depth, it’s got that. If your thing is finesse and elegance, it’s got that. If you’re looking for something else, look somewhere else.