I continue to be encouraged by the trend toward the de-Cabernization of Merlot — where the grape is allowed to show its true colors instead of trying to emulate its more marketable partner. Here it’s joined by a healthy dose of Malbec (17%), adding a little blue fruit character to the expected cherry, leaf and spice. Bold oak, bright acid and a firm grip make for a long finish that doesn’t tip into astringency or offense, and you’d never guess the alcohol to come in under fourteen percent considering the full throttle flavors present. Well done!
Ancient Peaks, Santa Margarita Ranch (Paso Robles, California) Merlot 2014
By Rich Cook