In a blind tasting, this wine is intriguing because it can seem rather European in style. The wine’s complex, concentrated aroma speaks of fresh fruit — dark berries in particular — with floral nuances and black-pepper spiciness. In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied but lean and controlled in structure, a big wine but not powerful or heavy. Flavors of dark fruit, tobacco, inky minerality and a meaty note are pronounced but not overwhelming, and the fruity notes suggest fresh fruit rather than over-ripeness. This is a wine that seems to be holding itself back for your next taste rather than presenting itself to you head-on. It is complex and it has some sophistication — the kind of Syrah that I could sip all night long. From a fairly new winery, established in 2006, this current release is already almost four years old, and seems to be at its peak.
Aril, Atlas Peak (Napa Valley, California) Syrah 2009
By Mary Ewing-Mulligan