Arrocal, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2018

 This medium-sized, family-owned bodega (they’ve been growers since 1850) is among the most rapidly rising in the region, and there’s no doubt that its fame will increase rapidly in the very near future.  This is a new, top wine that replaces two former high-end releases called “Ángel” and Maximo,” which were last made in 2016.  Both of those wines were terrific for multiple releases on end, which shows that things are really moving at this address under the leadership of a new generation (Rodrigo and Asier Calvo), even though the place was already obviously on the rise.  Everything is estate grown and all from within the village ( (Gumiel de Mercado) where the winery is located.  This is 100% Tinto Fino from 70+ year-old vines located in the single vineyard called Guardavinas, which is situated at 860 meters of elevation.  It was aged entirely in new oak (70% French and 30% American) for 24 months, and though it will become more fully integrated and complex, it is already off to a flying start, having absorbed much of its overtly new oak aromas and flavors.  That shows how formidable the core of fruit is in this wine, which recalls black cherries above all, with accents of baking spices and a whiff of woodsmoke, plus multiple other subtle nuances.  This is already wonderful, and will only get better steadily over the decade ahead, by which time my score may well look low in retrospect.