Aurelio Settimo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012

The spectacular success of the Rocche Dell’Annunziata cru in the village of La Morra extended so broadly that even producers who have escaped my notice in past years — such as Settimo — were able to make fabulous wines.  Never again will I fail to check on wines flowing from this estate, as this wine is almost magical in its combination of power and earthiness on one hand, along with freshness and purity on the other.  The style is definitely traditional, with some faintly rustic and animal notes suggesting larger, older oak may have been involved in the vinification and/or ageing processes, but these are accents that enhance the overall complexity of the wine, rather than indications of a rogue element like brettanomyces that could threaten to overtake the wine’s character.  An absolutely terrific wine, and one that I will buy immediately if I see it offered in the USA.  Other wines from Rocche Dell’Annunziata to watch for:  Rocche Costamagna (which I’ve already purchased), Andrea Oberto and Trediberri.