The buzz engulfing Pouilly-Fuissé comes from the well-deserved designation of premier cru vineyards. So, now that distinction will appear on labels. But let’s not forget the village wines. A village Pouilly-Fuissé from a top house, like Auvigue, will compete with those labeled premier cru from less talented producers. Auvigue’s 2022, a blend from vineyards throughout the appellation, reminds us why Pouilly-Fuissé has always been, and remains, popular. It is a white Burgundy that delivers everything you want — minerals, some fruitiness, and riveting uplifting acidity. It’s packed yet not heavy. Drink now but cellar it without hesitation because in my experience Auvigue’s wines develop beautifully with proper storage.
Auvigue, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2022
By Michael Apstein