This limited production wine offered primarily through the tasting rooms is all about restrained power and precision. It opens up quickly to reveal refined aromas of black plum, mocha and walnut. Medium-bodied, it offers concentrated flavors of black fruits with sage, dried herbs and light oak, and on the palate it is slightly fleshy but with plenty of backbone for a solid framework. There’s a hint of juicy fruit but it is balanced by refined, dusty tannins which bode well for extended cellaring. In many ways it reminded me of classic, young Bordeaux in terms of structure but offers just a little more substance.
Barnard Griffin Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
By Norm Roby