For the past decade I’ve found that in many cases I like non-reserve versions of European wines better than Riservas, because the latter often seem to be made for point scores from other critics, rather than for drinking. That seems to be the case here as well, although fortunately there’s only so far that Ricasoli will go in that direction, as this wine still has sufficient acidity. But what Riserva here gets you, compared to the basic Chianti Classico, is more noticeable tannins and a somewhat simpler aroma. It’s taking a Sangiovese-based wine a little closer to the idea of Bordeaux, and I don’t think that’s a step in the right direction. That said, if I hadn’t had the non-reserve version open at the same time, I would be perfectly happy to drink this wine — mostly dark cherry fruit, a few earthy notes — and it’s only $4 more. So if you see it on a wine list, just forget the other wine even exists.
