Batasiolo, Barbera d’Alba DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2019

 Good Barbera is among the world’s most broadly useful red wines for pairing with food, as its relatively high acidity enabled it to work well with virtually anything with a tomato involved — from pizza to pasta to summer salads with grilled steak and small slices of tomato. Also wonderful with soups and stews or a good sandwich with charcuterie, it is much beloved as a daily staple in Piedmont, regardless of the fact that Barolo and Barbaresco are the darlings of the wine press.  I love good Barbera, and guess what — this is good Barbera.  Medium-bodied as usual, with red berry fruit notes but also subtle undertones of wild mushrooms and freshly tanned leather, this is a fine example of the breed.  It is just rustic enough and simultaneously classy enough to keep you guessing which aspect will prove predominant in the next sip — if indeed you prefer to scrutinize the wine rather than just enjoying it with your food and friends, which is a purpose to which it is very well suited.