Beconcini, Terre di Pisa Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Maurleo” 2020 ($18, R&B Wine Imports)

The history of the family Beconcini estate is like many in Tuscany. The grandfather liberates the land from the shackles of share-cropping in the 1950s and produces a variety of agricultural products, including grapes. The next generation focuses on viticulture and winemaking, eliminating everything else. The current generation, under the guidance of Pietro Beconcini, innovates and refines the wine while maintaining tradition. The tradition in the case of Maurleo is a blend of Sangiovese and what has been traditionally called, “its traveling companion,” Malvasia Nera. A little Colorino rounds out the blend of this bargain-priced beauty. A slightly tarry component is the perfect foil for the succulent fruitiness of Sangiovese. It delivers more complexity and a longer finish than you’d expect for the price. Mild tannins allow for current enjoyment. My advice? Buy it by the case for cold weather fare that is on the way.
93 Michael Apstein