Benovia Winery, Sonoma County (California) Pinot Noir 2013

 I absolutely loved this wine, and am also very enthusiastic about the 2014 "Martinella" Pinot (also reviewed this week), so maybe it will enhance my credibility to note that I don’t love everything turned out by this winery.  The straight Russian River Valley Pinot is simply too sweet for my taste, as is the Chardonnay "La Pommeraie."  However, this Cohn Vineyard release is terrific precisely because it does not show any overt sweetness, emphasizing restrained ripening instead and enveloping the fruit in lovely savory nuances.  The oak is likewise quite subtle and perfectly tuned to the character of the fruit, lending undertones of toast and spice and framing the finish without imparting any astringency.  This isn’t just a terrific wine, but also an exemplary one at a time when California Pinots are often overtly sweet and simple.