Berlucchi, Franciacorta (Italy) “61” Nature 2015 ($77, Volio Imports)

I have no idea what its origin is, but there is a lovely whiff of wood smoke that lingers in this bubbly made of 70/30 Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. There are also hints of green herbs and of brioche to go along with the fruit – a solid wine that seems pleasantly full of surprises yet is a classic bubbly in its complexity.
92 Roger Morris