Bernard Defaix Chablis Grand Cru Bougros (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2022 ($92)

Grand Cru Chablis is from the best sites on the steep slopes above the village. At its best, it combines power with a raciness not found in other Chardonnays. Bernard Defaix’s excellent 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros reflects the essential character of the site. Aged in neutral oak for several months, it shows subtle wood influences. The nose offers crisp apple, peach and citrus fruits combined with floral, nut, herb, and spice nuances. On the palate, the ripeness of the 2022 harvest shows with the apple and lemon flavors enhanced by peach and tropical fruit nuances plus herbal and nutty hints. The finish is clean and refreshing with the oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident. This is an enjoyable Chablis now, but it will improve for another 5 to 8 years.
93 Wayne Belding