Bertani, Valpolicella-Valpantena (Veneto, Italy) 2009

Bertani, one of the very best names in the Veneto, has been making Valpolicella for 150 years.  In the 19th century, the convention held that Valpolicella was a sweet wine.  To distinguish their dry Valpolicella they labeled it Secco-Bertani.   Although the convention now is that Valpolicella is dry, the name remains.  With many vapid Valpolicella on the market diluting the reputation of this appellation, it’s a delight to find this marvelous example.  It has good depth and the hallmark notes of dried cherries.  Smooth and polished tannins make it perfect for current consumption.