The label says Rosso, but the wine says Brunello. That’s Biondi-Santi for you. Firm, sleek and minerally, this mid-weight Rosso has more elegance and stature than many producers’ bottlings of Brunello. Fine tannins surround tightly coiled power and exquisite austerity. Its profile will not be for everyone — those looking for opulence should look elsewhere. But those who embrace firm, elegant wines with grace and substance will love its beauty.
Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
By Michael Apstein