Bodegas Bhilar, Rioja Alavesa (La Rioja, Spain) 2021

 Graciano is normally used as a blending grape in Spain’s Rioja region, but this 100% Graciano is refreshingly different.  Bodegas Bhilar sources their Graciano from a collection of vineyards in Rioja’s high-elevation Alavesa region and then ferment the wine in concrete to showcase the structure and ripeness of the fruit.  The wine is expressive with suggestions of graphite, violet, tinned cranberry, black cherry, leather, and crushed rocks on the nose.  The body is light with fine, grippy tannins and an abundance of flavors that continue the mineral-driven experience with added white pepper and tobacco notes.   Made for wine nerds — one would guess — this wine handily outperforms its $22 price tag expectations.  DNA testing suggests that Graciano may be a sibling of Monastrell, also known  as Mourvèdre.  I just hope Graciano can jump on the 100% varietal bandwagon that winemakers have been exploring with Mourvèdre.