Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2017

 This is a very big and powerful wine in most vintages — certainly in this one as well.  Physically quite dense, it counterbalances its oak load very effectively, making the initial impression one of purity and balance.  This is a singular characteristic that makes this wine worth its asking price when judged against ultra-premium wines that also ring up for $90 or so.  Its window of enjoyability is just phenomenal, and though I think it would be a mistake to open this for another five years, it will likely improve for two decades after that and hold for another decade after that.  Holding it for that long will require either a bit of optimism or deep affection for your children or grandchildren, but the wine really does seem up to the challenge.  Tasted again 24 hours after opening, it still showed the same need for time in bottle to absorb tannins, so either keep your mitts off this for a good while or buy the 2018 Reserva instead.