I opened this along with several other roughly comparable reds, including one from another producer in Toro that I esteem highly, and this was clearly the most complete and enjoyable wine in the group. It is made from relatively young vines averaging 20 years in age — but only “young” in the context of Toro, and especially for a wine priced at this level. Regarding price, it is amazing that this was aged in 100% new oak barrels, all American ones in this case. That could have been a recipe for a coconut and vanilla disaster (two notes that lesser American cooperage can impart that I cannot abide). However, either the barrels were of high quality or the wine’s limited time in them (only 6 months) prevented those notes from resulting. What did result was a pleasantly spicy, lightly toasty edge on a core of ripe, dark berry fruit that shows excellent integration with the wood and very fine balance of all components, including acidity and tannin. This is remarkably delicious for its age and price.
Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2021
By Michael Franz