Bodegas Madai, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencía “Atlantic” 2018 ($30, Boutinot)

Brothers Daniel and Gonzalo Amigo returned to their family roots to establish Bodegas Madai, breathing new life into their grandparents’ vineyards in El Bierzo, located northwest Spain. On steep, south-facing slopes, ideal for grape ripening, the Amigo brothers uncovered plots of Godello and Mencía vines—some over a century old. Their 2018 Mencía is brimming with sleek, vibrant fruit and an irresistible energy. Aromas of ripe blueberries and blackberries burst forth, accompanied by delicate floral notes of violets. The palate is layered with bramble and berry fruit, supported by silky, elegant tannins and a subtle gravelly texture that adds length and complexity.
93 Miranda Franco