This all-Tempranillo release is very impressive, with formidable density, excellent depth of flavor, and fine balance of fruit in relation to oak, tannin, and acidity. It would come off as being heavy or over-ripe from its powerful initial palate impression, yet the wine shows as much lift in the progression of sensory impressions as it does ballast from its concentration and oak load. The fruit tones are decidedly dark rather than red, which makes sense in relation to its appearance and overall power. As good as it tastes now, it will surely become much better if cellared for at least another five years to allow tertiary characters to emerge from time in bottle. When that occurs (as it inevitably will), this will develop from two-dimensional impressiveness into three-dimensional excellence, with complexity that enhances its currently symmetrical muscularity.
Bodegas Ollauri, Rioja (La Rioja Spain) 2016
By Michael Franz