Bolla, Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso (Veneto, Italy) 2010

Both Bolla, the famed Soave producer, and Valpolicella, the area in the Veneto near Verona, have had checkered reputations over the years.  I’m happy to report that both are back in top form.  This Valpolicella, from the best part — Classico — of the DOCG and by regulation is riper — Superiore.  To add extra oomph Bolla uses the Ripasso method, which involving fermenting the wine with partially dried and concentrated grapes used for power-packed Amarone.  So this is not the light Beaujolais-like wine many people associate with Valpolicella.  Instead there’s a glossy richness without heaviness, supple tannins and lively acidity.  It’s a fantastic formula for current consumption with hearty pasta dishes or burgers on the grill.