Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

 The Bonterra brand, now owned by Concha y Toro, waved the flag of organic production long before it became popular and now carries as many associated initials of “green” organizations after its name – most recently “Regenerative Organic Certified” or ROC – as a member of the British royal family.  Not that it’s a small company run by folks in bib overalls and granny dresses. Head vineyardist Joseph Brinkley recently told me that production is now up to around 600,000 cases annually.  Yet the wines and wine prices remain as approachable as they were years ago.  The Cabernet has both blackberry and slightly tarter red fruit flavors with good intensity and depth of flavors along with some fresh herbal notes and mild, dusty tannins.  For comparison, it’s much like a Cab Franc from the Loire Valley – serviceable enough to ask for a second glass but perhaps not arresting enough to take a second look at the label.