Structurally, out of the bottle it is lean and leathery with peppery tannins. With a little time, it opens up to show lovely, complex wine that is a mixture of creamy purple fruits – blackberries and black raspberries – balanced by notes of savory brambles. It is one of those intriguing wines that you would love to see how it develops over the years, given what it does in just one long evening.
Brion, Napa Valley (California) 2021
By Roger Morris