Brion Wise, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Ronda” Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV ($85)

Unless they are grandfathered (such as Gallo), no American winery can produced a sparkling wine labeled “Champagne” unless they actually have someone in Champagne physically make it, presumably along with input from the person who owns the label. Which is what California producer Brion Wise had done, relying on the Champenoise Waris et Filles for the basics. The result is quite nice, with medium weight, intense bubbles, lemony flavors and a hint of vanilla beans, fresh and lean without being severe.
93 Roger Morris