The advances in quality in the Veneto in recent years is nothing short of stunning, particularly for Valpolicella. Once upon a time the best grapes of each harvest went into the production of Amarone, leaving most Valpolicella of a certain era wanting for flavor, complexity and, indeed, weight. No problem here. Cantine Buglioni’s Il Ruffiano is a bockbuster of a Valpolicella, with impressive depth and richness. Intense aromas of black cherry and black currant dominate, with an inviting earthy essence that provides additional complexity. The acids and tannins are firm, suggesting this wine will improve with additional time under good cellar conditions.
Buglioni, Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2011
By Robert Whitley