Said to be a special cuvée by Martin Codax from vineyard blocks behind the winery, this one is light in color but quite lively in aroma and flavors with melon and nectarine in the nose with lively, zippy flavors. Some richness shows in the mouthfeel until brisk acidity with mineral highlights take over in an immensely long, lip-smacking finish. Think shellfish! Codax is a large cooperative winery drawing fruit from 500 local growers. Its widely available white label Albariño is less edgy than this unusual version. Burgans is the winery’s street address.
Burgans, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2019
By Norm Roby