Cantina di Caldaro, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2021

 Everyone knows that the world is awash in cheap Pinot Grigio that is lacking in character, but that’s true of virtually every other successful variety around the world, and thus no reason not to look for excellent renditions.  This is surely one of them.  It shows truly medium-body, which makes it unlike the cheapo acid water releases from various locations in the northeast of Italy, but also unlike the overly sweet and overblown takes on this grape from Alsace (which are impressive for a minute before they turn tiresome).  This shows unusually expressive aromas of poached pears and baked apples along with a very faintly smoky streak that Pinot Grigio / Gris sometimes displays.  Ripe but not sweet, with very good balancing acidity (more than the norm for this middling weight class, to be sure), it finishes with a slightly and pleasantly bitter backnote that adds to its complexity and affinity for food.  This is faith-restoring Pinot Grigio.