Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012

 Although single vineyard bottlings are all the rage in Barolo and elsewhere, Maria Teresa Mascarello continues her father’s time-honored philosophy that Barolo is best when it’s a blend of vineyards.  Mascarello’s Barolo is a blend of grapes from four vineyards they own, three in the village of Barolo itself, Rué, Cannubi, St. Lorenzo, along with one in La Morra, Rocche d’Annunziata.  The 2012 is a gorgeous wine, with a delicate, but persistent floral nose.  It delivers a combination of sour red cherry fruit mixed with spice.  Deceptively light in color (Nebbiolo lacks the skin pigments that color most red wines more deeply), it is powerful and persistent.  Although reminiscent of red Burgundy because of its paradox of power and lightness, the firm, though not harsh, tannins remind you quickly you’re in Barolo.  This is a beautiful balanced young Barolo that will show its best in a decade or two — or three.