Don’t let the playful label fool you — this is serious wine. That doesn’t mean you can’t have fun with it, or just drink it unthinkingly, but it is drinking beautifully now, 2.5 years after the grapes were picked, which shows that Arneis need not be purchased from the most recent vintage to be at its best. Aromas of acacia blossoms and freshly sliced nectarines get this off to a great start, followed by flavors recalling stone fruits with lift from acidity that fresh but not overly tart. Medium bodied and fleshy on the palate, but with good “cut” and definition, this is delightful to sip, but also sufficiently weighty and serious (there’s that word again) to work with all sorts of fin fish dishes or even a roast chicken.
Cantina Tibaldi, Roero DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Arneis 2018
By Michael Franz