Cascina Roccalini, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2008

 Barbera wines come in many styles, from very light and fresh to very ripe and oak-influenced.  This Alba-zone Barbera, from a tiny producer situated in Barbaresco, falls smack in the middle of the gamut.  It’s fairly full in body and has the deep color and textural richness of grapes that are good-and-ripe, but it has the vibrant acidity and the purity and juiciness of fruit character that’s missing from the richest, most expensive Barbera wines, and it is unoaked.  Personality, vivacity, concentration, and weight — a Barbera worth trying.  Will age nicely for 5-plus years.