Straight Chianti–not Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina–has gotten a bad reputation for producing thin and acidic wines. And sometimes that reputation is justified. But let’s not paint all of them, and certainly not this one, with the same brush. Cecchi’s Chianti delivers a dark rich cherry fruit profile and lip-smacking acidity. A good “pizza wine,” it’s also a good choice for lasagna and other pasta dishes with uncomplicated tomato sauces. We need more simple satisfying wines at this price.