Ceretto. Langhe Arneis (Piedmont, Italy) “Blange” 2022 ($19, Trinchero Family Estates)

Ceretto was among the first famous Barolo houses to recognize the potential of the local Arneis variety, and their rendition remains among the best of the breed. To be fair, smaller and lesser-known growers of Arneis in the appellation of Roero produce wines that are every bit as good, but this will be easier to find, and the 2022 vintage is very fine (thanks in part wise use of a screwcap closure). Arneis from better producers is often better two or three years after the vintage, and this wine is a case in point. Very subtle floral notes get this off to an appealing start, and the fruit flavors remind me of newly ripe peaches (though this could be because I happen to know that Roero grows famously great peaches—ones that are so good that they threaten vineyards now planted to Arneis or Nebbiolo). This wine seems to be at its apogee right now, so seek out a bottle.
92 Michael Franz