Château de Pizay, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

 A Beaujolais that can change your mind about Beaujolais, this is an elegant, graceful wine, with layered complexity and a supple, silky texture.  It has nothing in common with “nouveau” or any of the simple-tasting wines from the region that seem to flood store shelves each fall.  It also has little in common with its more famous Burgundian neighbors from the Côte de Beaune or Nuits.  One often reads that the best Beaujolais reds from “crus” like Morgon taste like Pinot-based red Burgundies.  In my experience, that’s not true.  These are not copy-cats, but rather wines with an identity (and an integrity) all their own.  The Gamay grape may not be thought as “noble” as Pinot Noir, but especially for near-term drinking, this wine will knock the socks off most comparably-priced Pinots, whether from Burgundy or elsewhere.