Château Yvonne, Saumur Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2017

 Most of the wine made from Chenin Blanc, the primary white grape in Saumur, went into sparkling wine or non-distinguished still wine.  That has changed over the last couple of decades, with talented and focused producers, such as Château Yvonne, and others.  Château Yvonne’s tightly-wound 2017 displays enormous energy and a dazzling interplay of Chenin Blanc’s subtle citrus fruitiness and minerality.  I’d put it in the cellar for a few years, but if you’re drinking it this summer with spiced Asian fare or sushi — combinations I highly recommend — open it a couple of hours in advance.