Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2013

Anne-Claude Leflaive, the late famed Burgundy producer, and Christian Jacques, her husband, acquired Clau de Nell in 2008.  Similar to Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, the vineyards at Clau de Nell are farmed biodynamically.  People can — and do — argue whether biodynamic philosophy is hocus pocus or whether it is responsible for superior wines.  There’s no argument about the quality of either the wines from Domaine Leflaive or Clau de Nell. They are stunningly good.  There’s a Burgundian sensibility to this wine — not surprising considering who owns the estate — with deceptive power despite lightness on the palate.  The Cabernet Franc is lusciously ripe, avoiding vegetal flavors that sometimes plaques this variety.  Yet the wine is not heavy.  A leafy, savory quality balances the red fruit notes.  A crystalline purity makes you eager for another sip.  This is a wine that will transform you idea of Cabernet Franc and Loire reds.