Claude and Florence Thomas-Labaille, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “l’Authentique” 2023 ($31, Louis Dressner)

Sauvignon Blancs from Sancerre rank among the most distinctive in the world. Thomas-Labailles’s 2023 Sancerre l’Authentique is drawn from vineyards surrounding their home village of Chavignol. It sees no wood aging but spends six months on its lees to give the wine more complexity. This 2023 bottling has a wonderful combination of lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents are followed by floral and herbal hints. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus and apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal nuances. Chavignol is also noted for goat’s milk cheeses and a fresh Chèvre will be a fine companion for this excellent Sancerre.
90 Wayne Belding