Clos Grandinaz, Sion (Valais, Switzerland) Chasselas 2017

 This isn’t everyone’s idea of what Swiss Chasselas should be, as it is a much richer, riper rendition than one might expect after all of the wonderfully fresh, fluffy, screw-capped examples to be relished in French-speaking Switzerland.  It is certainly a more serious take on the variety, with fruit recalling very ripe pears — almost poached ones — and yet the wine is certainly not sweet, nor confining due to its ripeness.  However, one would still be well advised to pair this with food such as freshwater fish or chicken or cheeses, as it is really too ripe and weighty for shellfish, and is a little short on acidity for great performance as an aperitif.  But get this with the right food, and stand back.