There is little doubt that this young wine will be even better if you have the patience to wait for it to mature, but damn, it’s mighty good right now! For maximum enjoyment, indulge its youth by decanting it, and by swirling it vigorously in the glass. Even with all this, however, each glassful — each sip! — is better than the one before as the wine unfurls its silken plenitude in your mouth. This is a joyful Pinot Noir, brimming with vitality though you won’t find it brash or aggressive as its fresh, bright fruit harmonizes with the notes of earthiness rather than grabbing center stage.
Cobb, South Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2009
By Marguerite Thomas