Full disclosure: I’m prejudiced against Malbec because all too often it produces a plodding, hit-you-over-the-head red wine. But, that’s why you keep tasting. This one does not fit my prejudicial paradigm. It’s a big wine, to be sure, but balanced and, most importantly, fresh. By that I mean, it’s lively, not plodding. It delivers the usual array of ripe black fruit flavors but there’s some elegance here — the modest 13.6 percent stated alcohol likely accounts for part of that — and a lovely floral component. It’s another one for drinking with robust fare this fall and winter.
Coen, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2020
By Michael Apstein