Cogno, Barbera d’Alba DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2019

 It has been a few years since I have enjoyed the good fortune to visit this beautiful estate (often known as “Elvio Cogno” and perhaps better known to some readers under that title), but what a pleasure to taste most of the current release reds, which are terrific.  This Barbera is a wonderful wine that most readers will think I underscored, even at 93 points, because there are so few consumers who have tasted Barbera that was made so thoughtfully from a single site by a great estate that takes this versatile variety seriously.  Impressively concentrated pigmentation shows this wine’s seriousness, and aromas that include lifted floral notes but also deep, savory scents (and plenty of accents underneath) confirm the eye’s initial impression.  The flavors fully confirm the promise of the bouquet, delivering the meaty, gutsy flavors so beloved by everyone who lives in the Langhe district around the town of Alba, but also the flashy acidity that makes Barbera such a great food wine.  And by the way, Alba is among the best food destinations in the world, so if the locals love it as a food wine, it deserves your keen attention.