Conterno Diego, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2015

 I don’t recall this house’s Ginestra from earlier vintages, so this is news to me, and very good news indeed.  By contrast to the toweringly powerful 2015 Sori Ginestra from Conterno Fantino, this shows less muscle but more grace and overall appeal, at least at this point in the development of the two.  In both aroma and flavor, it is open and soft and savory, with lots of little complexities that are already very nicely integrated with the core of ripe fruit, as are the structural components of acidity, wood and tannin.  With no heat and wonderful proportionality, this medium-bodied beauty is stands as evidence of excellent decisions in both the vineyard and winery.  A terrific wine that got everything the 2015 offered without succumbing to any of its temptations to excess.