Copain, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2009

 This is the wine that master sommelier Geoff Kruth used to demonstrate a definition of "balance:"  Kruth upturned his empty glass and placed it on his head, saying, "balance is when you can wear it as a hat."  It’s a fresh, pretty wine, with light raspberry fruit, and it would be easy to miss its charms in a giant tasting. You don’t notice any single element: the light tannins are perfectly integrated.  It’s refreshing, and the only thing holding its rating below the highest marks is its relative simplicity.  However, you’d have to be a grouch to not like it.